After making the Yokomo 870C Masami Hirosaka 1989 Worlds Car and the Yokomo Works ´91 Kinwald cars, what are based on a Lipo chassis, I finally wanted the real Yokomo 4+2 Sub-C cell chassis. So I redesigned the chassis set to make it as close as possible to the original 1989 Worlds Car. I had some different sources of drawings and all were a little different. So I made a mix of them to come close to the real car.
But I did not wanted to make another Hirosaka car. So Brian Kinwald came in my mind. Did he participated the Worlds from 1989 in Sydney/Australia? No. So for me a perfect start to make another car from another universe!
Most of the Team Associated/Yokomo team drivers from the US used their own version of the Yokomo 870C. Most used other chassis than the Yokomo Japan drivers, like Masami Hirosaka.
Cliff Lett, Jay Halsey and many other used a this different chassis and many of them used mono shocks at the front.
This looks, like a step back - but there was a reason, why the US boys used them this way.
One chassis from a japanese driver with the iconic 4+2 cell chassis. The gold shocks are a nice touch!
And of course the car of the master himself - Masami Hirosaka. Maybe one of his most famous and iconic cars ever made!
We know Brian Kinwald for his amazing attention to the details. And we really don´t know, what kind of chassis he would prefere for the Worlds 1989. But he was always one, two, or three steps further, than most other drivers. So my bet goes to the Yokomo chassis with the 4+2 cell layout and 2 shocks at the front!
Some will say, Brian would take the Yokomo Protech body - and maybe they are right. But in my world he used the original Yokomo 870C body with his iconic paint job! Because it looks so much cooler!
Too sad, that never happend - Masami and Brian on the same track with their Yokomo 870C cars.
In my universe they used the same weapons and had a epic fight for the title.
2 generations of Brian Kinwald´s cars, what never existed. But they look fantastic!
As always - it is all about the details. The body from Team Bluegroove. Custom made stickers from MCI Racing and the paint job from ARQ Paint!
To get the typical Kinwald look, I used some of his RC10 Worlds Car stickers. And in this universe he was sponsored by JG!
The front end. The bulkhead cups are painted, like Brian´s RC10 Worlds Car, with some flakes glitter.
Here is the RC10 BK replica rear shock tower from Cedric Devillers.
The look under the body. Yes. 4+2 Sub-C chassis with NiMh cells and Brushless setup - the mosts stupid way to enjoy vintage racing!
The chassis is made of high quality black fibre glass to imitate the look of the graphite material from the original cars.
The blue LRP Flow-X and the LRP NiMh cells fits pretty nice the BK colours.
I took one more of the Higest RC Servos for this chassis. And I cutted the tabs for the screws and used double sided tape - the oldschool way!
For modern 4WD vintage racing, I took a Reedy 10.5T motor.
Instead of the original and super rare Yokomo c-hubs, I took some of the Kyosho Optima, what have a little caster angle. They fit without any modifications. I also installed the Optima front knuckles, because they are so much stronger!
The 3D printed RC10 rear knuckles have 3 degrees toe-in and are made to fit the hub extension plates - just as on the Masami car.
Wheels off. The Kyosho parts looks ok on the Yokomo. Lunsford Retro turnbuckles all around!
To solder those modern MiMh cells is even harder, than back in the days, because they suck much more of the heat from your soldering iron. I only know a few guys who was able to make some perfect soldering on their batteries. And I know, they had giant soldering irons back in the days.
To wire the batteries for this chassis was not easy. Not much space there.
The rear hub setup.
Right side. Here you can see the Hobbywing Capacitor, what is glued under the top deck.
Left side.
The look from the top. The chassis is crazy narrow.
4+2 means a strange battery configuration, but a perfect weight distribution!
The handling to install the batteries is pretty simple.
Personally I like the look of the black matte glass fibre material.
I like it it so much!
The undertray and the rear plate. This plate works as rear suspension down stop.
Now the question: Will I drive this car? Yes! Some day I will go down to the track and race this thing. Could be an interesting experience. But I don´t want to destroy it on our modern (and hated) carpet, or Astro tracks. This one is made for dirt! Smooth riding and sliding through the corners and some bumps. No stupid 5 meters jumping. No high grip. No walls of death.I have no idea, what Brian would think about this project, but I hope he would be gracious with me. Thanks for your inspirations! If you are interested to get one of this chassis kits, just let me know!
Really fantastic work. Curious if these chassi sets are still avai? I’ve loved this setup from when I first saw it in RC Car Action back in the 90’s. If they are, how would I go about making this happen with one of your beautiful sets?
Mal wieder ein faszinierendes Auto geworden... langsam wird es spannend, was wohl als nächstes kommen könnte 😎