Project: Double Trouble - RC10 Stealth Car 1991 and RC10 Kinwald Edition Double Feature

Since my social media and news detox and weight loss program since the beginning of this year (2026) I am feeling much better! I can focus on my daily workouts and walking and my diet plan without get stressed from all the bad news and plain crazyness around the world. It works pretty well! Lost about 20 Kg within 10 weeks and hope the other half will be gone this summer. Without knowing, what is going on, everything improved in my life. When I switch on my TV in some months, I am sure, people live in peace and love, forgot their old rivalry, shaked hands and tries to make the world a better place, ruled by commen sense and responsible persons.

If not, don´t tell!!!

In this article I want to show you my racing cars for this season (2026). I built both cars in the same time and they are a sort of brothers in many ways.

The long awaited Team Associated RC10 Stealth Car 1991 - finally here!

The Team Associated RC10 Kinwald Edition - the best re-release kit in my opinion.

"BOTH CARS RECIEVED SOME SERIOUS UPGRADES FOR MODERN VINTAGE RACING"

But before we start, enjoy some nice perspectives!

The Stealth ´91 comes with the VIPER body, while the RC10 Kinwald came with a JConcepts body, what I really don´t like. Team Associated - why did you not put the original Turbo Mirage body into this iconic kit?

So I reached out another time for the Pengiun Turbo Mirage replica body from the UK.

Another view - and you can spot some differences against the kit car.

Same with the RC10 - the Pro´s will see some mods for sure!

Both cars came out really cool! Featured with tons of mods.

"But will they be fast for modern vintage racing?"

Right side - clean installation of components means less issues when racing.

I cutted the sides a little bit lower, than the chassis came with the kit.

Left side - I switched this season to a Hobbywing Speedo!

Absolutely same electronics in the RC10 build. SRT servos, Futaba recievers and EAM batteries. Both are powered by Reedy Sonic 13.5T motors!

For me the Stealth Car from 1991 is one of the most beauty racing buggies ever made. Or it is just the childlike influence we all recieved back in the days?

But the ordinary RC10 is also a cool thing for sure!

Race me!

Of course - we all know, the RC10 is probably the best allround buggy. It works on slippery surface, high grip surface, on dirt, on grass, on carpet, astro and without much doubt on mars! Countless wins in a decade proved this buggy as the best ever made.

"Even the Stealth Car ´91 can not beat the RC10 in all disciplines. Remember - it was made to win only one race on one special track!"

The RC10 front end with roll bar, longer (+2mm) front axles from JC Racing and Yokomo TH-1 wheel adapters from No Coast Racing.

JC Racing offers those front axles in 3 different lenghts. Standard, +2mm and +5mm. I personally use the +2mm variant. If you prefer a very aggressive steering, take the longer ones.

Stealth front end - with a very special super-high-roll center design! I made a front roll bar for this car. You also can spot the Stealth ´89 front hinge pin brace with longer pins. Fits perfectly! I like the look of the titanium-nitride gold coating of the shock shafts!

Daniel from Dragonpunch RC was so kind to send me a sample of the most important option part for this car! A aluminium front bulkhead! This thing makes your Stealth Car bomb proof! Like all Dragonpunch products, this part has a great and very original-like design and a amazing quality regarding fit and finish! It also helps to add about 20g more weight on the front. Exactly, what racers want today!

Because I broke the kit bumper by only grabbing the car, I made a new bumper from 2mm Kydex. This one is much stronger now!

I drilled the holes for the shock tower through and extended the thread to install the 3D printed roll bar mounts from the other side. You also can see the 2 mm distance plate for better alignement of the shock tower to the shocks and a MXLR weight.

I made a ball raced steering plate for less play and a more direct steering feeling. Because the wrong original servo mount holes on the chassis, I printed thinner servo mounts to equalize the missing 2mm distance. To lower the body at the front, I cutted the body post and drilled a new hole for the pin.

I put some more MXLR Tungsten weight to the front for our beloved modern high grip tracks. I use a Hudy servo arm with tightening screw. Perfect lenght and strong!

Same steering plate on the RC10. I use the JConcepts aluminium steering arms.

I made several new parts for both cars. The Stealth has shorter shocks now. I installed 0.71 front shocks and 1.02 rear shocks. You still have enough suspension travel, but a much lower center of gravity. The front shock tower has a optional hole position for the ball studs of upper suspension for less camber gain. I also made new battery plates for both cars, what allows stick type Lipo batteries. Check the cutted rear battery cups to allow the fit of the longer stick Lipo batteries.

"Many ask, why I always use stick Lipos and not shorties in my cars. The answer is simple: Vintage cars are much lighter than modern buggies. If the car is too light, it can cause a bad handling on some tracks. So adding weight plus using a stick Lipo helps a lot to improve handling. The car reacts a bit more lazy, but is much easier to control. "

It also helps to take care on your shock setup! After testing many moons springs and oil, I came to the ´89 Stealth car rear springs on the rear and the Kyosho pink front springs on both cars. Those springs are pretty soft. To get a less nervous handling, you need a relatively hard oil. I also drilled all my shock pistons to 2x 1.6mm to get a more "free" damping all around.

The RC10 also got shorter shocks for better center of gravity.

The rear end. You can see the very short rear body mount to allow the Viper body a very low position on the chassis. I made a roll bar and printed some roll bar mounts, what are mounted between the bulkhead and the inner suspension ball studs. The improve the camber gain rate for less camber gain (for modern tracks), I used the most inner suspension hole on the bulkhead and made a extension plate for the rear hub. It took some tests to find the sweet spot, but it was worth the work! For all these modifications, you need new turnbuckles. I am not a fan of the original RCPS design turnbuckles, simply because they are very hard to adjust. I used my trusty Lunsfords and the world is perfect.

For the roll bar ball ends I found some original AE stuff. If you need them for your build, check out those from Rubrix Racing!

You can spot the roll bar mount here. I also shorted the wing tubes on both cars. If you want to run the RC10 on high grip, you usually take the long wheelbase position of the inner lower suspension mounts. But don´t forget the shim the lower shock ball end for a perfect alignment.

I want to race this car. So to be perfectly prepared, I installed the modern dual disk slipper. The original slipper can overheat pretty quick with modern power!

As you can see, I installed the Kinwald motor plate, what looks soo nice!

The rear bumper plate is cutted to fit the Kinwald-style.

The RC10 rear arms are shaved down - just like Brian Kinwald´s Worlds Car from 1993.

The Yokomo TH-1 wheel adapters are from No Coast RC - great quality! The rims are - as always - the JC Racing Yokomo rims.

Black and white. It looks so good!

White and black. It looks so good!

I cutted the motor plate and the gear cover a little bit to get more space for the upper suspension.

No need to cut something here.

The new stuff.

Advanced vintage tuning.

Not to forget the amazing Moto Obscura shock caps with bleed screw. These guys makes the filling of the Team Associated shocks a breeze! And the quality is amazing!

The kit wire is cheap and simply not strong enough - just like in the old days. I still can hear the drivers from the drivers stand "WING WIRE BENT!"

So i bend my own wing wire since years from 2.2 mm piano wire. They are pretty strong now.

Both cars are ready now. Both recieved the maximum possible tuning by taking care the design from the early 1990´s. I am glad, that Team Associated released both of this amazing vintage cars! Especially the Stealth Car 1991 with it´s very special front suspension geometry will be interesting to drive. My plan is to drive both of them - plus my personal VITEC at all vintage and non-vintage races this year.

Peace!